Seminar AI - Grossglockner, 2008 - 1

24. 2. 2008 Vaje 1819

Deli z drugimi

V želji, da bi bili vsi inštruktorji alpinizma, ki delujejo pod okriljem Komisije za alpinizem pri PZS seznanjeni z novostmi, PVZI KA vsako leto organizira obnavljalni seminar. Tokrat je tema, hoja po ledeniku in reševanje iz ledeniških razpok, zahtevala izbiro lokacije, kjer so na voljo razpoke primerne za vadbo. Nam najbližji ledenik pod JZ steno Grossglocknerja (Kodnitz) je za to primeren. Vodja seminarja je bil Matjaž Šerkezi, pomagali pa so mu še Janez, Alen, Rok in Klemen.

Zbor inštruktorjev je bil 23.februarja ob deseti uri pri koci Studelhutte. Nekaj zagnanih nas je tja prišlo že večer prej. Vreme v soboto ni bilo najboljše. Nagajala je megla in močno je pihalo, zato smo program nekoliko prilagodili vremenski situaciji. Najprej je bilo na sporedu predavanje in kasneje debata o iskanju z lavinsko žolno. Tudi zaradi prepogostih zavajujočih člankov o primernosti enih in neprimernosti drugih tipov žoln v strokovni in laični literaturi, je bila ta tema več kot dobrodošla. Spet smo prišli do zaključka, da je dobra vsaka žolna s katero znamo rokovati in je tehnično brezhibna. Seveda pa je prvi pogoj, da žolno (ne pozabimo, da poleg žolne obvezno sodita še lopata in sonda) vzamemo na turo. Okoli poldneva se je vreme popravilo in v praksi smo predelali prej povedano. Z vsemi žolnami smo naredili tudi test "žarkov" in na žalost izločili dve žolni, kljub temu, da je bila ena popolnoma nova.

Po krajšem predahu sta Janez in Matjaž prikazala pravilno pripravo naveze za hojo po ledeniku. Predstavljena je bila minimalna potrebna oprema in priprava naveze dveh oziroma treh oseb za gibanje po ledeniku. V nadaljevanju smo obdelali še zaustavljanje padlega v razpoko in kako ga dvignemo iz nje. Doslej priporočeno tehniko izmeničnega vlečenja ene in druge vrvi smo zamenjali s sistemom za dvig s škripcem. Glavna novost je uporaba "reversa" v vseh fazah reševanja. Alpinist "reševalec" se z njim spusti k padlemu, kasneje ga uporabi kot zadrgo na vrvi in si znjim pomaga pri dvigu iz razpoke, v zadnji fazi pa reverso uporabimo še kot samozaporni element pri dvigu padlega. Tri muhe na en mah, bi lahko rekli. Vsaka faza je bila nazorno prikazana in utemeljena.

Pred počitkom je sledilo še predavanje iz prve pomoči. Rok, zdravnik in reševalec, je obdelal "pristop k ponesrečenemu".

Planinska postojanka Studelhutte na žalost še ni bila oskrbovana, zato smo prenočili v zimskem bivaku. Nas je bilo okoli trideset, nabralo se je še nekaj slučajnih obiskovalcev in spanje po načelu sardin v konzervi nam ni ušlo.

V nedeljo smo že ob devetih začeli z delom na ledeniku. V praksi, pod obremenitvijo smo preizkusili kar smo prejšnji dan predelali.

Po analizi je sledil še spust s smučmi do parkirišča in do ponovnega seminarja v oktobru smo se razšli. Po odzivih na analizi sodeč je seminar dosegel svoj namen.

Matjaž je obljubil podrobno tehnično poročilo o seminarju. Takoj ko bo mogoče bom povezavo dodal.

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Studelhutte
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